|
Peter PaoEmbarking on a culinary adventure. |
|
7/6/2024 24 Comments Braised Oxtails at Tlaxcalli Braised oxtails at Tlaxcalli When I first moved back to Oahu, I had asked a cousin where there was good Mexican food. This is since living on Maui I had many choices of “Maui Mex”-at Maui Tacos run by a friend, chef Mark Ellman, RIP. Also there were several Mexican expats who opened their own restaurants after moving there to work in fields, restaurants, and hotels. A natural progression. Those served NOT So Cal Mex (tacos, burritos, etc). I got used to “country” or home style Mexican cooking. My cousin said Taco Bell. Thanks Darrell.
I first noticed this guy griddling meats at farmers markets about town. He did it out of a pick up truck. Then he had a lunch wagon, and then a brick and mortar. I followed him throughout all of that. What first got my attention was that he made his own tortillas. That alone sold me. Fresh tortilla are so much better than packaged for retail/wholesale. Second, after speaking with him, was that he cooked offal. Soon I was having ears, snouts, and organs, in tacos! Now, I consider him a friend, as much as one can. I say that as he is not easy to get along with. He has expelled me from his restaurant more than once. But, that would be my fault, as I was always “poking” the bear. If there could be a “taco nazi”, he gets my vote. I like that about him. No pretense, no BS. This is his food, take it or get out! What I like besides the fresh tortilla, and offal, is his attention to slow cooked food. Country food. The food of his family. What he ate growing up. There are many menu items one does not find at other Mexican restaurants, many of which now are on the birria bandwagon. I am not a fan of boiled meat served with the boiling liquid on the side. As the boiling liquid-or what they like to call consommé- is highly viscous, it’s a mess to eat. I only have birria as a dip sandwich, as the bolillo roll absorbs the jus, helping in getting the flavorful broth into your mouth. If eaten with a taco, it just runs out threatening to soil your hands and clothing. Tlaxcalli slow cooks these oxtails to the point the meat DOES fall off the bone. This makes for an unctuous eating experience. I go so often, I need not order, he sees me, and makes my order. But its not just the soft, well seasoned meat, nor just the fresh tortilla. It’s the beans. These alone would make me come back. I have tried to order them as a side dish, and he would not sell them to me (did I say he is difficult?). His point, which I get, was that if he sold them to me, he would not have enough available as a side dish to the oxtails, which is the whole point to the sale of that meal.
24 Comments
 Fried Clams, Boston Baked Beans, and Corn Bread at Union Oyster House Boston was a long time coming for me. One of my mentors was from there. We all have heard of and had Boston Clam Chowder. There is the Boston Baked Beans, and of course Boston Cream Pie. Looked forward to these in their home place for a long time.
I read about the Freedom Trail, a 2-1/2 mile walk that passed many of the historical sites. I decided to walk it. I started at the Bunker Hill Monument, walked to the USS Constitution (which is still a commissioned naval ship), which I boarded and walked about, and its in remarkable condition. Then across the Charles River, to The Old north Church. Saw the Paul Revere Statue, and walked past The Paul Revere House. Next thing I know, I am at The Union Oyster House. This is Americas oldest restaurant which started serving food in 1826, fifty years after The United States became a nation. I decided to have lunch, as this place had all the items that were on my checklist for Boston. Boston Clam Chowder-I honestly think the clam chowder at home that was previously frozen sold at restaurants was better. Partly since that was my expectation. The soup I had in Boston was most likely how it SHOULD taste, but I had preconceptions. Fried Clams-Exactly as expected, clams battered and fried. Boston Baked Beans-These were every bit as tasty as the canned kind. Just as good. At least it was not worse. I guess canned food CAN be good. Boston Cream Pie-Honestly, I have had better at home. It may be that what I had at home may be the version I was used to, but this one was dense, and being served cold, was extra heavy. It was tasty, just dense. Nothing was bad, everything was good. But I had them all before, and it was my mistake to measure them against what I was used to. Lesson to be learned, temper your expectations. The food may not live up to them.  Lamb Vindaloo and butter naan at Spice Up Indian Cuisine I have always been a fan of Indian food, but had not had it for a while. Maui did not have any Indian food restaurants that I knew of, so did without for those @15 years.
After moving back to Honolulu, I could not find much, as most that were there had closed down. When I was IN college, there were several Indian restaurants around the University of Hawaii, due to The East West Center, and the many students and teachers from that area. I had actually discovered Indian food, specifically Tandoori chicken and naan bread, at all places, during a trip to Alaska. I had walked into a restaurant there and loved it ever since. After that I was always looking for places with house made naan bread. Thanks Ma. So one day, while walking down King Street, a familiar smell hit me. Spices, lots of them, cooking. I could not believe my olfactory sense, I had to have it. I walked in, sat, and was looking forward to this meal. I like spice, so asked for the lamb vindaloo. I noticed they offered several naan, plain-butter-garlic-etc. I aske if they made it in house, since a tandoor oven would be needed, and I also saw tandoori chicken on the menu, and they said yes. To be an ass, I asked to see it, and they led me into the kitchen. The cook showed me how to bake the naan by flattening it then slapping it on the side of the oven, and asked me if I wanted to make my own order of naan. SOLD. It was such an experience to do that. I now go there as often as I can, order the lamb vindaloo, and naan bread. While that vindaloo is spicy, it is so spicy, I cannot stop eating eat. I go alone so I do not have to share it. The naan is so good, crispy bottom from the side of the oven, crispy top from the heat, but soft inside. Perfect for sopping up the vindaloo and the rice. Oh, and you ignorant other local people, do not complain that they do not give you a lot of rice. The rice is complimentary, and is NOT the main starch. That would be the NAAN bread. You put the rice on your plate, then the curry or other gravy item on that. Then you either eat the gravy and rice and eat the bread. But for the people in the know, you scoop the rice and gravy item with the bread and put in your mouth. The naan is your eating utensil. What, you think they carry forks or spoons around in the desert? The rice is simply to make it easier to soak up the gravy. IT IS NOT the side dish you were thinking of. Dear lord, READ something now and then so you can learn how other cultures eat. I tried another place that sells naan bread, and they had a tandoor oven. I saw it in the open kitchen, across from Whole Foods. But the bread I got when ordered was not fresh, and I did not see them use that oven. It tasted like freezer. I asked why they do not use the tandoor, and the waiter said they do not use it for ANY of the food. Thank you very popular Turkish food restaurant. Unlike Spice Up, I WILL NOT be going as often as I can. 7/3/2024 0 Comments Chicago Chop HouseAfter the demise of my favorite, Lawry’s The Prime Rib, I have been looking for a suitable replacement. This place came close. I can tell they do not use a cook-and-hold oven to roast the prime rib. While it is cooked properly to a nice rare done-ness, what they lacked was the appropriately needed holding time at temperature to break down the connective tissue. It simply was not tender enough. Don’t get me wrong, you would not notice the difference, but I did. I am trained, after all. It looked great, it was tasty, it was nicely rare. It just was not as tender as is should have been. The raw oysters were delicious, the oysters Rockefeller were delicious, the potato was delicious. Just the prime rim did not live up to its full potential. If you want to find out what I mean, eat at The Bull Shed in Kapa'a on Kauai, easily the best prime rib in the state. Or go to The Prime Rib House in San Francisco. There is a Lawry’s The Prime Rib in Las Vegas, but I will not go, the Chicago location holds a special place on my heart. If YOU go to any of these places, you will know what I mean, they have taken the steps necessary to dial in a proper prime rib. But aside from the food at Lawry’s were all the other touches. Hour waitress comes to take your order, and its for prime rib by weight, and your side choices of potato’s (mashed, garlic, or baked), creamed corn or spinach, and Yorkshire pudding. Don’t be a rube when the Yorkshire shows up as a popover, and not a gelatin, and if you want the side order of lobster tails. SIDE ORDER OF LOBSTER! This is a prime rib house after all. Hopefully you are lucky enough to be seated at a booth against a wall, which looks like a tufted clamshell. Then she brings your salad on a cart. The bowl of salad is sitting in a larger bowl of ice, which she spins while holding your dressing aloft as it pours down on your self mixing salad. She then portions your salad onto your plate and serves. This bowl of salad is yours for your table and performed and plated for YOU. Then the prime rib is wheeled out on an all stainless steel cart called a gueridon. It has a telescoping roll top, which when telescoped open, has an interior light, and the chef who rolled it to you, who is wearing full chef whites, carves your order off of a standing rib roast, per your ordered weight choice, and plates it. Quite the show. When I find another location that does all of that, I will have found my new prime rib place.
7/3/2024 2 Comments El Che | Chicago
This alone makes the trip to Chicago worthwhile. Simply the crab claws. We cannot get them shipped to Hawaii. They are so delicious, entire restaurant chains are open specializing in them. The story behind them is that they are harvested in Florida. Claws are measured, and if large enough, are torn off the crab. Then the crab is tossed back in the ocean, where they can grow another claw back, to be harvested again. Totally sustainable. They are served cracked, and chilled, with a side of creamy mustard sauce. Thank you, Debbie, for making me aware of this dish. There are a multitude of side dishes to go with this, but it is all about the crab claws. I have had the potatoes Lyonnaise before when they were creamy. Now they are dry and overcooked, so this was a pass on subsequent trips. This time opted for the fried soft shell crabs, always a good choice when in season. Aldo the charbroiled prawns, head attached, as sucking the “mustard” out of the head is a singular treat. But those fried asparagus spears? That was a genius move. With the texture of all the seafood, the crispy asparagus was appreciated as an accompaniment. Wait staff is tuxedoed, staff is well trained in wait captain service. It is expensive, but can only be enjoyed away from home, so why not. Dinner here will run you about $200 per person. If that is too much for you, go to that little steak house on Nimitz Highway that pretends to do the same job, and spend half as much. You will be getting half the quality, and much less than half the experience.
7/1/2024 0 Comments 99 Restaurant | New Hampshire
 Beef Goulash and Stuffed Cabbage with Latkes New Jersey is the diner capital of the world. Who knew? I guess I had heard that, but forgot it.
I asked the hotel front desk guy where I could find a good meal that I could not find at home, and he reminded me of New Jersey’s diner history. I am truly grateful. I love a good Diner, especially if they have regional ethnic food along with good basic coffee shop fare. Think a better Zippy's with East European food choices. I guess our compatible would be Big City Diner, but with more basic diner food. Sorry Lane, but while you do have loco moco, you do not have the diner basics like a patty melt, or fried chicken. We do have Zippy’s, but they offer even less in comparison. The menu are vast, many pages, and encompass every day and meal part. Appetizers, soup, salad, entrée, sandwiches, desserts, and on and on. Impossible to try them all. But of course, there are the regional/ethnic foods also. Usually, the family that owns them has foods of their ethnicity added on. That had my radar up. But also, ASK the server what THEY like. They would know. Yes, sometimes they will just blurt out the expensive items, as they are trained to do. But sometimes you can pick up on sincere recommendations. You can decipher what is worthwhile, including your preferences, whether to have the $28 meat loaf, or the $18 Goulash. Speaking of goulash, beef goulash, WHERE can we get that at home? No one makes it anywhere. It’s like their adobo. Every household has their own recipe. It’s a stew of beef, vegetables, and lots of paprika. Not the paprika that is years old sitting in your cabinet at home. Fresh, multiple types, and copious amounts of paprika. Mine was served on a bed of egg noodles. It was so much, I could not finish it. It was delicious. That is the other thing about diner food. It is seasoned well, and served in huge portions. Not at all like the scant plates of fried chicken chili we get at home. Of course there were other items on the table. Latkes with sour cream and applesauce. Stuffed cabbage, which was not like what we are used to. These are lighter, the stuffing is not as dense as we are used to. This makes you want to say it’s not as good as at home, but maybe WE are used to the wrong thing? Let's face it, our stuffed cabbage memories are usually based on Stouffers, not home made. The food was so good here, it made for a subsequent visit. There were other diners visited, but they were not as memorable, not worth a second visit, and not even worth a photo. 6/22/2024 0 Comments Seabras's Marisqueria | Newark, NJ
|
